Our Morning at Batu Caves

Artikel ini juga tersedia dalam bahasa Indonesia

After three days and two nights in Kuala Lumpur, it was already our last morning in the city. We were flying to Jakarta later that afternoon, but before heading to KLIA, we still wanted to squeeze in one last stop: Batu Caves.

We had packed everything the night before, so there was nothing left to sort out that morning. The plan was to visit Batu Caves, come back to the apartment, pick up our suitcases and head straight to the airport. And if we ended up running late, at least we knew we could leave as soon as we got back.

According to the map, Batu Caves was about 12.6 kilometres by road from Ascott Kuala Lumpur on Jalan Pinang. With no traffic, the drive looked quite short. But after a few days in Kuala Lumpur, we knew better than to rely on that, so we expected the journey to take around 25 minutes.

While we were in Kuala Lumpur, we also wanted to see something beyond the skyscrapers and shopping centres around KLCC. We did not have much time, and Batu Caves was close enough to fit into our plans. It is in Gombak, Selangor, about 13 kilometres north of central Kuala Lumpur. Although it is technically outside the city of Kuala Lumpur, it is still close enough to visit from there.

Hinduism

A few weeks before our summer holiday, Caesar had a school assignment about world religions. He chose Balinese Hinduism, wrote a paper about it and presented it in class. He did really well and got an 8+.

So the timing of our visit to Batu Caves was quite a coincidence. What Caesar had learned was specifically about Balinese Hinduism, but of course it shares roots and traditions with Hinduism elsewhere, including India. And now, just a few weeks later, we were about to visit Batu Caves, one of Malaysia’s most important Hindu places of worship.

Maybe I’m reading too much into it, but perhaps God thought Caesar’s school assignment wasn’t quite enough and sent us to Batu Caves to see another side of Hinduism for ourselves.

Quick Answer: Can You Visit Batu Caves in Half a Day?

Yes. We left for Batu Caves after breakfast at around 8:53 a.m. and decided to return to our apartment at 11:33 a.m. In less than three hours, we managed to visit Sri Ramayana Cave, see the Lord Murugan statue, climb the 272 steps and enter Temple Cave.

Batu Caves is a realistic option for families with children who can climb the steps independently. Families with toddlers or a stroller or buggy, as well as older visitors and anyone who tires easily or becomes short of breath, should first consider the steps, heat, humidity and uneven cave surfaces. If you like to take your time and stop along the way, give yourself half a day.

The Hanuman Statue

We left early because we did not want to climb the steps under the midday sun. Even so, by the time we finished breakfast at around 8:53 a.m., Batu Caves was already hot in the late-July weather. It was not too crowded yet, which made it a good time to start the climb.

Mas Bas had passed Batu Caves several times on his way to the factory where he worked and had always seen the enormous golden Lord Murugan statue from the road. He had often wondered when he would finally get the chance to see it up close.

When we arrived at Batu Caves, we did not head straight to the Murugan statue. We first walked towards Ramayana Cave, where a 15-metre-tall Hanuman statue stands near the entrance.

Entre Ticket

At first, we were not quite sure where to go. A few people nearby pointed us towards a small table that turned out to be the ticket counter for Ramayana Cave. It was so simple that we could easily have walked straight past it. We paid RM15 per adult for entry to Sri Ramayana Cave.

This was the price when we visited in late July. Admission prices and opening hours can change, so it is best to check again at the ticket counter when you arrive.

Hanuman is one of the main figures in the ancient Hindu epic, the Ramayana. He is a vanara, a divine figure often represented with monkey-like features, and a loyal follower and friend of Rama. In The Ramayana, Rama sets out to rescue his wife, Sita, after she is abducted by Ravana, the king of Lanka.

Near the statue is a temple dedicated to Hanuman. The temple was formally consecrated in November 2001 and has been used as a place of worship ever since, according to information from Batu Caves Sri Subramaniar Swamy Devasthanam.

The Ramayana and Mahabharata Are Not the Same Story

In front of the entrance to Sri Ramayana Cave, we saw a horse-drawn chariot with a blue statue of Krishna standing beside it.

Krishna is one of the most important gods in Hinduism. In many Hindu traditions, Krishna is regarded as an avatar, or incarnation, of Vishnu. He has a major role in the Mahabharata, especially in the Bhagavad Gita, where he serves as Arjuna’s charioteer and adviser.

The Mahabharata tells of a conflict between two branches of a royal family, the Pandavas and the Kauravas. That is a completely different story from the Ramayana, which has its own plot and characters, including Rama, Sita, Ravana and Hanuman. Both are extremely important ancient epics in the Hindu tradition, but they are not two parts of the same story.

There are many different figures throughout the Batu Caves complex. The site is connected with several Hindu stories and traditions, although the cave we were about to enter focuses specifically on the Ramayana.

Walking Through the Story Inside Sri Ramayana Cave

There is more to Batu Caves than the famous steps and Temple Cave at the top. The complex has several caves and places of worship, and we started at Sri Ramayana Cave, which sits at the foot of the hill, separate from Temple Cave.

Once inside Sri Ramayana Cave, we began to see how the story of the Ramayana was presented throughout the cave. Brightly coloured statues, paintings and dioramas showed scenes from Rama’s journey to rescue Sita with the help of Hanuman and the vanara army.

The statues are arranged in a sequence, so if you follow them and read the information boards along the way, it feels a little like reading the Ramayana in 3D. Instead of turning the pages of a book, you walk from one scene to the next as the story unfolds around you.

Waking Kumbhakarna

One of the most striking dioramas shows Kumbhakarna being woken from his sleep. Kumbhakarna is Ravana’s brother and is known for sleeping for long periods. In the Ramayana, many people try to wake him so that he can join the battle.

The size of the figures and the number of characters in the scene make it easy to imagine how dramatic the moment was. The details throughout the cave also help visitors understand what is happening in each scene, even if they do not already know the whole Ramayana.

A Stalagmite Revered as a Shiva Lingam

At the back of Sri Ramayana Cave, a flight of steps leads to a higher chamber. From above, we could look back over the dioramas and the lower part of the cave. The chamber is part of the cave’s natural structure, although the route, steps, lighting and displays were added for visitors.

In the upper section, we came across something quite different: a natural stalagmite worshipped as a Suyambu Lingam, or Shiva Lingam, associated with Lord Shiva. Unlike the statues around the cave, this one was not made by anyone. It formed naturally inside the cave and became a sacred place of worship.

We saw money placed around it, apparently as an offering. In Hindu practice, an offering may be a way of showing respect, praying, giving thanks or asking for a blessing. Offerings do not always take the form of money. Depending on the place and its traditions, people may also offer flowers, fruit, incense or other items.

How Was Sri Ramayana Cave Prepared for Visitors?

The limestone hill at Batu Caves is estimated to be about 400 million years old, so the cave itself is a natural formation. The statues, lighting, pathways and Ramayana dioramas were added much later.

Speleologist Liz Price documented the transformation of Sri Ramayana Cave from a natural cave into a place that visitors could enter. In her field notes about Lower Ganesh, or Ramayana Cave, she wrote that:

• In June 1991, it was still a natural cave with no route for visitors.
• When she returned in May 1993, statues were being made and painted, lighting had been installed, and parts of the cave walls had been painted as backdrops for the scenes.
• By September 1993, there were around 15 to 20 Ramayana scenes, although many of the statues had not yet been fully painted.
• According to a plaque she saw, Ramayana Cave opened in 1995.

What to Know Before Entering Sri Ramayana Cave

You do not need to climb the 272 steps to reach the entrance to Sri Ramayana Cave. The interior, however, is not entirely easy to explore. There are steps leading to a higher chamber, sloping paths, uneven surfaces and areas that can feel slippery because of the cave’s damp conditions. Footwear with a good grip will therefore be more helpful than sandals with slippery soles.

You can still enjoy the lower area without following the entire route upwards. Even so, the cave is not ideal for a stroller or buggy. Elderly visitors, children who still need help walking, and anyone with limited mobility, stamina or a tendency to become short of breath should consider these conditions before going farther inside.

Monkeys at Batu Caves

After making our way to the upper section of Sri Ramayana Cave, we headed back down, ready for some fresh air. But when we stepped outside, it was even hotter than before.

In weather like this, a hat and sunglasses are very useful, although it is wise to keep an eye on loose belongings around the monkeys.

From Sri Ramayana Cave, we walked towards the main area to see the Lord Murugan statue and the colourful steps that are visible even from the road. As we got closer, we also started noticing monkeys everywhere. Quite a few were roaming around the statue and along the staircase leading to Temple Cave.

They are long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis). A study of the macaque population at Batu Caves also recorded behaviour that included bothering visitors and taking their belongings.

The monkeys were not placed there as a tourist attraction. They are wild animals that live around the limestone hill and have become accustomed to being close to large numbers of people.

We did not have any problems with them, but it is still worth being a little careful when walking past. Keep food inside a closed bag and do not feed them or get too close for photographs. It is also a good idea to keep hold of your phone, sunglasses and other small belongings. They may be used to having people around, but they are still wild animals and need their space.

The Golden Lord Murugan Statue

After walking past the monkeys, we continued towards the main part of Batu Caves. This was where the view we had been waiting for finally appeared in front of us: the golden Lord Murugan statue at the foot of the colourful steps leading to Temple Cave, also known as Cathedral Cave.

Lord Murugan is an important Hindu deity and is especially revered in Tamil Hindu tradition. He is also known as Kartikeya, Skanda and Subramaniam, and is the son of Lord Shiva and the goddess Parvati.

A Place of Worship

Batu Caves has been a place of worship dedicated to Lord Murugan since the late nineteenth century. K. Thambusamy Pillai, a Tamil businessman and prominent member of Kuala Lumpur’s Hindu community, saw that the entrance to the main cave reminded him of the vel, Lord Murugan’s sacred spear. He then helped establish Batu Caves as a place of worship dedicated to Murugan.

In 1891, the sacred image of Sri Subramaniar Swamy, another name for Lord Murugan, was placed inside the Temple Cave. A year later, in 1892, Thaipusam was celebrated at Batu Caves for the first time.

Thaipusam is a very important Hindu religious festival for Tamil Hindus and is dedicated primarily to Lord Murugan.

The Murugan statue is not there just for visitors to photograph. It represents the religious importance of Batu Caves, which has long been a place of worship and pilgrimage for Hindus.

The statue that now stands in front of the staircase was completed in 2006. It took more than three years to build and involved 15 sculptors from India along with other workers. It was unveiled on 29 January 2006, shortly before Thaipusam that year.

Structure

Standing 42.7 metres, or about 140 feet, tall, it was described as the tallest Lord Murugan statue in the world when it was unveiled. That record was later surpassed by a 146-foot Murugan statue inaugurated in Salem, Tamil Nadu, in 2022. According to Visit Selangor, the Batu Caves statue remains the tallest statue of a Hindu deity in Malaysia.

The Lord Murugan statue may look as though it is made of gold, but it is not solid gold. Reports from the time of its unveiling mention that around 1,550 cubic metres of concrete, hundreds of tonnes of steel bars and 300 litres of gold-coloured paint were used to create it.

Climbing the 272 Colourful Steps

Beside and behind the Lord Murugan statue is the colourful staircase that has become one of Batu Caves’ most recognisable sights. It leads to Temple Cave, the main cave and the centre of religious activity within the complex.

To reach it, we had to climb 272 steps. Temple Cave sits much higher than Sri Ramayana Cave. There was no admission charge for the main cave when we visited.

The bright colours that make the staircase so Instagrammable today are not part of its original appearance. The concrete steps were only painted in rainbow colours in 2018. That’s why photographs of Batu Caves taken before 2018 look very different.

Thaipusam and the Meaning of the Batu Caves Steps

Batu Caves is one of the main centres of Thaipusam, a Hindu festival closely associated with Lord Murugan. During the festival, pilgrims climb the 272 steps towards the temples inside the cave while carrying offerings and fulfilling religious vows.

The name Thaipusam comes from Thai, one of the months in the Tamil calendar, and Pusam, the name of a star. Its date changes each year and usually falls in January or February.

Thaipusam is connected to the story of Parvati giving her son Murugan a sacred spear, called a vel, to help him defeat Soorapadman. You can actually see this symbol at Batu Caves. The long spear held by the giant Murugan statue is the vel.

During Thaipusam, you will also see pilgrims carrying different kinds of offerings. Some carry pots of milk known as paal kudam, while others carry a kavadi, an offering structure that can be decorated with flowers and peacock feathers and carried on the shoulders or attached to the body.

I had also come across photographs from Thaipusam showing some worshippers with piercings through their skin, cheeks or tongue. For some, this is part of fulfilling a vow or expressing their faith, but it is not something everyone taking part in Thaipusam does.

Tourism Malaysia explains that climbing the steps while carrying a burden has spiritual meaning for worshippers. With that in mind, the steps themselves take on a different meaning. They lead to a place of worship, rather than simply providing a colourful background for photographs.

What to Know Before Climbing the Steps

All 272 steps leading to Temple Cave are outdoors and uncovered. The Murugan statue is also outside, so visitors are directly exposed to Malaysia’s sun, heat and humidity.

We visited on a morning in late July, but it became much hotter as we got closer to midday. And once we started climbing the 272 steps, the heat and humidity made it feel much harder than we had expected.

Bring drinking water, wear a hat and choose comfortable, non-slip footwear. Once you start climbing, there is no reason to rush. Go at your own pace and stop whenever you need to, rather than trying to match anyone else’s speed. The weather is another thing to keep in mind, as the steps can become more slippery during or after rain.

Because Batu Caves is an active place of worship, choose modest clothing that is still light enough for the heat. It is best to cover your shoulders and knees. Also follow any instructions to remove your shoes before entering certain temple areas.

The climb may also be more difficult for some visitors. Parents with young children, older visitors, and anyone who gets tired or out of breath easily on stairs may want to think about the heat and the 272 steps before heading up. And if you are visiting with a baby or toddler, keep in mind that a stroller or buggy cannot be used on the steps to Temple Cave.

Watch our Kuala Lumpur trip on YouTube: Want to see what this route actually looked like, from walking around KLCC to the places we visited along the way? Watch our Kuala Lumpur family travel video on Nasi en Stamppot.

What Is Inside Temple Cave?

Once we reached the top of the 272 steps, we entered Temple Cave. Instead of a temple building, we found ourselves inside a huge natural limestone cave with several Hindu temples and shrines inside.

The ceiling rises to around 100 metres in some places. Because of the chamber’s size and shape, it is also known as Cathedral Cave. Temple Cave is the name of the cave itself, while the smaller structures inside are temples or shrines where people pray.

The journey was not over when we entered the first chamber. At the back, another flight of steps leads visitors to a higher space.

The upper chamber was one of my favourite parts of Temple Cave. There is a natural opening in the roof, letting sunlight into the cave and onto the limestone walls and the temple below. Rain comes through the same opening too.

It felt very different from Sri Ramayana Cave. There, our attention had been drawn to the colourful lights, statues and man-made dioramas. In Temple Cave, the enormous scale and natural shape of the cave were much more dominant.

Sri Valli Deivanai Temple

Sri Valli Deivanai Temple stands in the highest chamber. Its name refers to Lord Murugan and to Valli and Deivanai, his two consorts or wives in Tamil Hindu tradition.

Batu Caves remains an active place of worship. Tourists and people who have come to pray share the same space. Visitors should therefore speak quietly, avoid obstructing rituals, follow local instructions and ask permission before taking close-up photographs of people.

The Lord Murugan statue and the 272 steps mark the route to a sacred place inside the limestone hill. It is important to remember that Batu Caves should be treated as a place of worship, not simply as a tourist attraction or a place to take photographs.

Is Batu Caves Suitable for Children?

Batu Caves can be visited with children, but every family’s experience will be different. Children who can walk long distances and climb the steps independently are likely to find it easier to complete the whole route. Toddlers who still need to be carried and children who tire quickly will need more time and help.

You also do not have to see every part of Batu Caves to make the visit worthwhile. Sri Ramayana Cave is at the foot of the hill, and you can see the Lord Murugan statue without climbing the 272 steps. So if the climb is too much because of the heat, limited time or simply because 272 steps are not for you, there is still plenty to see around the lower area.

Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Batu Caves

The End of Our Short Stay in Kuala Lumpur

At exactly 11:33 a.m., we decided to return to the apartment. Our clothes were soaked with sweat, and my iPhone had stopped responding several times because it was overheating.

On the way to the car pick-up area, we passed rows of souvenir stalls selling all kinds of Indian-style items. We had a quick look but did not buy anything. By then, we were ready to head back to the apartment, cool down for a while, pick up our suitcases and leave for KLIA.

If you have limited time in Kuala Lumpur because of a long transit, a work trip or a short stop before continuing elsewhere, a route around KLCC followed by half a day at Batu Caves is still a realistic option with children. Make sure your transit really is long enough, allow time for the return journey to the airport, and do not reduce your safety margin simply to squeeze in one more place.

For Caesar, this visit also became an unplanned continuation of his school assignment. A few weeks earlier, he had studied Balinese Hinduism in class. At Batu Caves, he saw another living Hindu tradition within Malaysia’s Tamil community.

Thank you for following our journey through Kuala Lumpur. If you have also spent half a day in the city, share your experience or route in the comments. I would be happy to read it and may try one of your suggestions when we return.

Next, follow our journey to Jakarta.

Work with Twinkle So Bright: Do you offer a product, service, or family travel experience that could make a city trip like this easier, more practical, or more enjoyable? This article is open to relevant partnerships that add useful value to the journey. View collaboration options

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